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The Informed Traveler

Top Ten African Safaris

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Top Ten African Safaris

From Cal Simmons Guide to Upscale Travel

It is a show. A spectacle. Something Andrew Lloyd Webber couldn't have mastered better.

A primal theater in Africa's Serengeti where the curtain never comes down and lone acacia trees and stately giraffes are the only props. An interactive show where yes, you are a humbled voyeur to the sex, violence, and politics of the plains, where you see firsthand survival of the fittest as the weak find their last moments of life paralyzed in the grip of a lion's jaw.

Where the sick get left behind, or the slow and stupid get thrashed by a preying crocodile. Where instinct is alive in the wildebeest who buck, leap, and forage through their annual migration. Where mothers protect their young, and loyalty of the pride rules the land. And the orchestra never stops playing.

From the grunts of the warthogs, clogging of the ungulates as they move like a tidal wave across the plains, roars of the lions, high-pitched bark of the zebras, the hysterics of the hyena and the foraging of the giant elephants, this firsthand experience will redefine your understanding of the word"wilderness."

East Africa

The Classic Wildlife Safari

-Kenya

Kenya is possibly the best and most well-known safari destination to get your fill of the"big five." We're not talking about the Carnivore restaurant in Nairobi, where tourists flock to gastronomically indulge in the game meats of the African plains. We're talking, real life, up close and personal confrontation with lions, elephants, rhino, hippo, cape buffalo . . .

Kenya's game parks are perhaps the quintessential safari experience and as a result are the best known destination for anyone seeking a safari. As a result some would say that the plains have gotten overrun with tourists, and viewing animals can begin to feel like New York City at rush hour. But despite this, the variety of parks, from Amboseli, where Kilimanjaro serves as the backdrop, to lesser known Aberdares in the forested north, Kenya is sure to satisfy.

The lodges and tent camps are more refined here than other safari destinations, and with the exception of Tanzania, this is the only one that can offer the chance of a lifetime, to see the annual wildebeest migration. On anyone's safari agenda when visiting Kenya is a stay at Masai Mara National Reserve, an extension of the Serengeti. The Mara offers the greatest quantity and diversity of wildlife in Kenya and it is the best place to witness the ungulates as they migrate to the Serengeti.

Just the Facts:

Best Season: Year-round, except April and May when the rains come.

Highlights: Wildebeest migration; Hot air balloon safari in Masai Mara; Eating at the Carnivore restaurant

The Serengeti

-Tanzania

We've all seen the Serengeti Plain. Lorne Greene's voice is as familiar as Grandpa's, thanks to his narration of practically every special on TV featuring wildlife on the Serengeti Plain. The Serengeti is what most people envision when dreaming of safari. Dry, flat, dusty land punctuated by the flat acacia tree, underneath which the mane of the male lion blows in the pre-storm wind. While Kenya is the overwhelming choice of most tourists, those in the know seem to prefer Tanzania.

It is less touristy than its neighbor, conditions are a little less refined but add to the ruggedness of the experience, and Tanzania offers such extraordinary sites like Ngorongoro crater, and Mount Kilimanjaro. The Serengeti Plain, covering 5,610 square miles, is home to more than 3 million animals. Despite the vastness, you will be surprised at how many concentrations of prides, troops, or herds you will see.

Ngorongoro crater is a must see, probably the best single spot for game viewing in all of East Africa. It is a small Eden concentrated within one crater. Africa's best are represented in one singular glance. As with Kenya, the variety of safaris offered makes the trip possible for anyone on a shoestring budget and those looking for all the comforts of home but on the plains!

Just the Facts:

Best Season: September-March when it is dry and there are large concentrations of animals on the Serengeti.

Highlights: Wildebeest migration; Kilimanjaro climb; Camping on the rim of Ngorongoro crater

Gorillas in the Mist

-Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda

You know the rules. Don't run from a charging silverback, don't show your pearly whites, and don't look one in the eye if it gets pissed at you. All of this is explained before setting out on the most amazing experience that Africa has to offer.

It is within Bwindi Impenetrable forest, part of the Virunga mountain range, on the border of southwestern Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, that you can come face-to-face with a troop of gorillas. There are little more than 600 mountain gorillas left on the planet and half of them live within Bwindi. The rest remain in Rwanda and Congo but due to civil strife and rebel activity, Bwindi is seeing most of the tourist action.

After you trek through the thick brush (they don't call it"Impenetrable" for nothing!), they see you and proceed down from their swinging vines, as if clocking in for another performance. There is always a chance a baby gorilla will closely inspect your blond hair, or a silverback will hiss or fart, nothing is predictable in the jungle and you must obey the rules of the great and powerful silverback , you are the peeping tom into his family after all! Whether you track the "M" group or the "H" group, you will not find a wildlife experience quite as exhilarating or emotional.

Just the Facts:

Best Season: September-March, June-September

Highlights: Route to Bwindi Forest; Spotting the massive silverback gorilla

A Rafting Voyage

-The Omo River, Ethiopia

Instead of being shuttled along from resort to resort or campsite to campsite in a land cruiser, why not snake along the Omo River through the most remote regions on earth, where civilization has not yet taken hold. If you truly want the undiscovered Africa, this journey is for you. You will touch down on all elevations and varying rapid intensity. You will wrestle with Class III and IV rapids, wind through narrow and very deep canyons, sheer walled gorges, and natural amphitheaters.

Waterfalls will cool you down, or a swim in the Omo's tributaries might do the trick. Camps are made at riverside, where you will be surrounded by waterfowl and lush vegetation, not to mention hippos, antelope, baboons and even lions. It has been said that the number-one killer of paddlers is the hippo. True or not, you will be in hippo territory, so be cautious! This trip embraces adventure on the river,with high doses of wildlife, water-in-the-face fun, and touches down on cultural exchanges as you have the opportunity to visit indigenous tribes along the way. A hard-to-beat adventure!

Just the Facts:

Best Season: For mild temperatures, October-June is best.

Highlights: Carved churches like Lalibela; Tribes

The Roof of Africa

-Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

Covering the best wildlife spots in Africa is certainly something to brag about. But this list would not be complete without including another bragging right, scaling the continent's highest peak. The mighty Mount Kilimanjaro doesn't boast a large array of wildlife, although at the base you could still spot some leopard and elephant if you're lucky. But it does take ownership of the best view of the entire continent. It is also a study in contrasts.

You begin the ascent in the warm dry plains, ascending slowly to the wide belt of wet tropical forest where temperatures of 85 degrees will have you shedding layers. Not long after, however, you'll be wishing you had brought those toe-warming pads you naively tossed away, thinking they had no place in the tropics of sub-Saharan Africa. Along with the engulfing mist, that can cover you and your hiking party in no time, come freezing temperatures and the threat of a blinding blizzard. It is a glacier after all! But rest easy, all you thin-blooded climbers. Once you summit you will descend at a rapid pace and feel the warmth of the rich sun more commonly associated with Africa.

Just the Facts:

Best Season: Climb during January-March, July-October

Highlights: Reaching Uhuru peak (the summit) at sunrise

Southern Africa

The Big Five Guaranteed

-South Africa

South Africa is home to the Disney World of game reserves, Kruger National Park. Here you can choose to hook up with an organized guided drive or self-drive, a feature that is rare within government-run parks. All roads are paved so there are no off-roading possibilities, which can make the rugged safari experience feel like a day at Disney World. For those who prefer a more intimate, personal experience, privately owned Sabi Sands is the place to go.

After staying at Mala Mala, which was signaled out as the top resort in the world by Conde-Nast Traveller magazine, head out in your roofless vehicle for unobstructed views of the"big five." If Mala Mala doesn't suit your fancy (are you crazy?), there are tons of other unique lodges within the park to choose from, Londolozi, Singita, Ulusaba, all guaranteed to be a unique experience. At Sabi Sands reserve you will also be afforded a private tracker that perches himself on the side of your vehicle to inspect game tracks. You are almost guaranteed a smorgasbord of animals!

Just the Facts:

Best Season: Year-round; October is ideal. June-August is their winter when things are dry making it easier to see animals.
Highlights: Mala Mala resort; Visit to a Zulu village

No Walk in the Park -South Luangwa National Park, Zambia

If feet are your favorite mode of travel, then South Luangwa National Park is the place to head. The Zambians pioneered walking safaris and offer some of the best in Africa. Unknowingly interrupt a pack of lions as they devise an ambush against a herd of impala, or stare at an elephant from ground level. In any case, you are no longer protected by the steel cage of your game vehicle. You are free to roam and the animals are free to roar . . . at you!

The easily unnerved or anxious are not recommended for this safari! You can hire an experienced safari ranger for as little as a day trip but it is the extended trek, four or five days, that will truly make you one with the wild. Birders will love it here too. As you walk through, flying overhead are more than 400 species of birds making South Luangwa a birder's paradise. It is also a prime destination for viewing elephants. Once known as"The Crowded Place" and "The Kingdom of the Elephant," the Luangwa Valley boasts more than 15,000 of the giant ones.

Just the Facts:

Best Season: May-September for dry, mild temperatures.

Highlights: Night rides or walks in South Luangwa National Park

A Closer Look

-Etosha National Park, Namibia

What African safari experience isn't photo worthy? Nobody goes on one without a camera. However, if you are really serious about getting those once-in-a lifetime shots, consider a specialized photo safari. More time is spent focusing on light conditions and as a result you plan your game drives accordingly.

It's capturing that prime light of day that separates this safari from the traditional. Etosha National Park,"the place of dry water," makes for a perfect photo safari because the park is relatively untouched by tourism. Tourism here is a drop in the bucket compared to the annual activity in the major parks within Kenya or Tanzania. Since the gridlock of land cruisers and khaki clad tourists hasn't stamped Etosha yet, the animals are relaxed , affording excellent photo opportunities.

Just the Facts:

Best Season: March-October; Spril-June has the least amount of rain.

Highlights: Getting a picture of an elephant scaling a sand dune with the desert's shimmering haze as a backdrop.

A Wild Ride

-Okavango Delta, Botswana

Any visit to any foreign town or city is enhanced by someone who can take you to all the favorite watering holes of the local people. You are ensured an authentic experience. Well, in the bush, who better to guide you on his back to the watering holes of the big five than the elephant. African elephants released from captivity in overseas zoos serve as your Land rover and offer what their steel counterparts can't, unobstructed views from a high perch, and an insider perspective into the minglings of the bush. Botswana's parks boast the largest concentration of elephants, close to 80,000, and the experience of riding on one will only enhance the sensation that the Okavango Delta usually provokes, that of untouched, untamed Africa.

The Okavango Delta, a 7,000-square-mile inland floodplain, hosts one of the richest concentrations of wildlife in Africa. On the plains, there are large herds of buffalo, kudu, oryx, and sable antelope. In the waters of the delta, which can be visited only by dugout canoes, you'll find crocodiles and countless hippos. All the other members of the circle of life are represented, so stretch out your inner thigh muscles, straddle the back of your guide, and waddle atop the best ride of your life!

Just the Facts:

Best Season: March-November, although August can have dust storms.

Highlights: Moremi Wildlife Reserve, along the Okavango Delta

Wings over Africa

Flying and Balloon Safaris

Imagine this: an aerial view of herds of elephants, prides of lions, troops of baboons, and every hooved prey of the plains, all in one glance! Balloon safaris are offered at most of the big game reserves in Kenya, Tanzania, and South Africa. Prices can run high, but so does your adrenaline as you float hundreds of feet above the action. The scenery will be like nothing you have ever experienced.

Flying safaris exist as well. These tours, which take place on luxury jets complete with bar and huge observation windows, take you on a whirlwind highlight tour from the pyramids north of the great Sahara to various stops. This tour is for you if money is no object and you have at least a month on your hands. One of the most unique experiences by far!

Just the Facts:

Best Season: Check particular countries; for jet safaris, check with outfitter for departure schedules.

Highlights: Feeling like God soaring above the Garden of Eden.

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